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35 Things You Should Know About What Grit To Sand Epoxy Primer | Sanding Bare Metal Before Epoxy Primer
- (A) We think you’ll find this clear is as easy to use, if not easier, and performs just as well, if not better, than most other clears available from the big manufacturers. It features premium European resins than make it very easy to apply, with exceptional flow and leveling characteristics. Those same long-lasting resins also provide exceptional buff-ability, which means you’ll be able to sand and polish this clear for a spectacular show-car-quality shine, even days after application. - Source: Internet
- Wet sanding can make a mess. All the cut debris in the solution with water ends up on the floor. This is difficult to sweep up when dry. But the advantage, as mentioned before, is that wet sanding produces no dust. - Source: Internet
- The amount of primer used could affect the product. If the layer of primer is too thick, it becomes unbalanced due to vertical layering. While Epoxy primer provides a nice finish for the product, it becomes difficult when the layer is thick because it must be sanded out. - Source: Internet
- Waterproof sandpaper is usually a closed coat, silicon carbide. It’s available from most automotive paint and supply stores. Grits from 60 to 1000 are available, although you should only need 60 to 80 grit for initial abrasion, and 180 to 220 grit or maybe 320 for final sanding prior to priming or varnish. If your cured epoxy has runs and irregularities, I suggest starting with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper. Work your way up until you get the degree of finish you’re after. - Source: Internet
- Wet sanding is normally done by hand. Never use an electric-powered sander when wet sanding or you could get electrocuted. We have used air-powered dual action (DA) machines for wet sanding (which is messy), but we usually sand by hand. - Source: Internet
- Question#2… are you planning on laying down a 2K or 4K primer over the epoxy? These are both thick primers that fill in sanding scratches with no problems. So, you can sand epoxy with a rough grit and not worry about seeing scratches later. Most experienced painters also shoot a coat of sealer right before paint, but that’s a personal preference. - Source: Internet
- (A) Yes. If you wait about two or three days, you can sand this primer. If sandpaper balls up, turns gummy, or develops hard spots, you might want to wait longer, increase the temperature where the vehicle is being stored, or try wet sanding. - Source: Internet
- To prepare the surface for subsequent epoxy coats or painting, wipe the dry surface with a paper towel to loosen any remaining debris and then sweep it with a bench brush. Don’t use rags—they may contaminate the surface. Follow with an electrostatic dust cloth, such as a Pledge Grab-it®. We use a tack cloth prior to painting, but not for subsequent epoxy coats because the tack cloth is resinous saturated cheesecloth which can contaminate the substrate and interfere with epoxy adhesion. - Source: Internet
- On the other hand, if the sanding paper is too fine, it will not affect the primer. Therefore, it is crucial that you use 320 grit sandpaper or 400 grit sandpaper. With these grits, a lowers grit will require lower passes, and a higher grit will require more effort. - Source: Internet
- This is a coarse sandpaper grit that will leave behind visible marks. Hence, it is not recommended for minor coat scratches. However, it can be used for rough sanding before bodywork and shaping body filler. - Source: Internet
- (A) You may reduce this system beyond the 1:1 mix ratio. Doing so will reduce the dried film build, a common practice when using the epoxy only as a sealer over bare metal, existing finishes, etc. However, adding reducer will change the ready-to-spray VOC and may take this system out of compliance, depending on your area and local regulations. - Source: Internet
- After applying the guide coat, use ‘block sand’ on the defects with a P320 grit until the guide coat is removed. Then reapply the guide coat. The Epoxy primer must be hard and dry before sanding to prevent the solvent from penetrating the wood surface, and then the final preparation is carried out. - Source: Internet
- For the filler, you can either apply it onto the bare metal before applying the epoxy or you can apply the epoxy first. People disagree on which is best, but I personally put the filler on the epoxy. I like to get that epoxy on there and keep the metal safe from moisture. - Source: Internet
- Hand sanding allows you to exercise more control over the depth of impact and the number of passes. But power sanders, on the other hand, can be too harsh on the primer, so it is best to avoid them. The sanding blocks are also cheaper than the power sanding tools. - Source: Internet
- I usually put water in a bucket. If the shop is cool, I’ll put hot water in a cooler (it holds heat as well as cold) to help keep it warm. I dip the rubber sanding block with sandpaper attached into the water when more water is needed. Another approach is to fill a squirt bottle and spray the substrate as you’re sanding. - Source: Internet
- So, question #1… did you take/are you taking your car down to bare metal? If so, then you absolutely need to shoot epoxy over it. You will do your body work over the epoxy coat. - Source: Internet
- Ok, that is a good question. And one that I would refer you to the SPI user forum for a detailed explanation. But in short, you can do it either way. Filler under primer, or over primer. According to the manufacturer, the epoxy primer really gives the filler a good “bite”. - Source: Internet
- (A) Yes. Epoxy Primer is a great choice for bare metal and a lot of other substrates, providing exceptional adhesion. Eastwood’s 2-part epoxy can be applied over steel, fiberglass, body fillers, existing finishes and even aluminum (though you should first use an etching solvent to treat the metal). - Source: Internet
- (A) While this primer is super easy to sand smooth, you may shoot the Single-Stage Urethane Paint over it in a “wet on wet” application. That means the paint may be applied over fresh primer that has still not cured. Just wait until the primer has flashed before applying paint. Doing this provides superior inter-coat adhesion, with a chemical bond holding the primer and paint together, as opposed to a mechanical bond resulting from scuff sanding. - Source: Internet
- Sandpaper grit is the population of abrasive or tough particles per square inch of a sandpaper sheet. The more abrasive particles present, the more effective and finer the sandpaper is but the less abrasive particles present, the more coarse the sandpaper is. Here are different grit sandpapers that can be used: - Source: Internet
- There are Topcoats that do not have enough adhesion and require sanding of Epoxy primer, but it is preferable to use Topcoats that bond quickly with primer, so you do not have to worry about sanding. Sanding aids the adhesion process. Two Topcoats that are conducive for Epoxy primer include: - Source: Internet
- I use a hard rubber sanding block like the one in the photo to hold the paper when smoothing and abrading most surfaces. A curved or soft pad may be necessary on curved surfaces, but you can wet sand without a block or pad by simply folding the cloth to fit your hand and dipping the paper in water. On heavily irregular or textured surfaces such as a sculpture, the waterproof paper won’t contour enough, so use an abrasive pad like 3M Scotch Brite® with water. - Source: Internet
- Wet sanding with waterproof sandpaper is often the best approach to sanding cured epoxy. Wet sanding epoxy emoves any amine blush while you sand, reduces clogging of the sandpaper, and reduces dust and exposure to partially cured epoxy. It lets your sandpaper go farther and provides a visual clue that everything is properly sanded. However, when working with bare wood or wood that cannot get wet, you will need to dry sand. - Source: Internet
- Epoxy primer can clog paper when dry sanding is used, so to prepare Epoxy primer for a base coat, wet sanding is the best way to prep a base coat. Go over your work after with a red or grey scuff pad for a better finish. You can even use the same method as 2K Urethane primer with a 400 to 600 grit wet. - Source: Internet
- (A) This is a urethane topcoat system, which means you have 18 hours before it reaches full cure. You can add a clearcoat, or another coat of paint, anytime after the previous coat has flashed (10-15 minutes) or before 18 hours. After those 18 hours have passed, you’ll need to abrade the surface (minimum of 400-grit) before topcoating for adhesion purposes. - Source: Internet
- Whether you’re priming a porous substance such as wood or a smooth substance such as metal, you need to sand the substance beforehand. Sanding a surface removes the top glossy layer, allowing the substance to receive the primer. Without sanding the surface in advance, the new coat of paint won’t stick to the previous layer. In addition to stripping the outer layer of gloss, you can also use sandpaper to correct imperfections and remove stains. Sanding ensures that the surface remains free of debris and that the finish is smooth and professional. - Source: Internet
- All room temperature cure amine-base hardening epoxies are susceptible to amine blush to some degree. This amine blush is soft and can be a little greasy or gooey; it doesn’t cut, but clogs or balls up so you can go through a lot of paper with little progress. (When epoxy balls up it’s an indicator that the epoxy isn’t fully cured.) Amine blush should be removed to prevent interference with subsequent coats of epoxy, paint, or varnish. - Source: Internet
- After you get all the paint off and you have bare metal, you can just spray the epoxy on. It doesn’t matter what grit you sanded with. Really, the epoxy is just to cover the metal and seal the moisture out to prevent rusting. - Source: Internet
- Thats pretty much the same problem I have: Sandpaper gumming up. I normally scuff the epoxy with 80 or 180 grit, then proceed with the body work and surfacer. Someone asked me the other day about it and I didn’t have a definative answer. So I started thinking about it and wondered if there was a better way to sand it that I didn’t know about. Thanks for all the info. - Source: Internet
- You will also have to sand the layer of Epoxy if you want to mix in a material that does not bond with primers to improve bonding and adhesion. However, it should be noted that Epoxy needs to be properly cured before sanding without making the coat uneven. We will see the rules you should know when sanding Epoxy primer before a base coat in this article, - Source: Internet
- One more thing. If you decide to spray epoxy over the metal before doing the filler, you will need to scuff up the epoxy before you spray your 2K. The epoxy will have a specified recoat window, some of which are up to 7 days, but if you are past the recoat window you would want to scuff it up first. - Source: Internet
- Do not attempt to use just any type of sanding even though the Epoxy primer is completely cured. Instead, you should carefully select a technique and medium of sanding. These practices will help determine the best product and optimal sanding method. - Source: Internet
- After you have sprayed the high build 2K, you can sand with lots of different grits. If you have some very straight panels and don’t think there is much leveling to do you can go with something fine like 400 grit. If you think that you are going to have a lot of leveling to do then you should start with something rougher, like 180. I almost always start with 180 and use that until I have everything level, then I move up to 400. - Source: Internet
- After your high build is blocked to perfection with 400, you are ready to go with your sealer. If you weren’t going to use sealer then it would be best to sand on up to 600 before paint. Since you are using sealer you will be ok becuase it will fill in the 400 scratches before you lay down the base coat. Make sure that spray the basecoat on the sealer within the recoat window or else you will have to sand it before spraying. - Source: Internet
- The wet sanding process involves using water to soften the impact of sanding. Dry sanding can remove the epoxy primer entirely and leave deeper abrasions. When wet sanding, you should use water to lubricate the surface for better results in preparing the primer. - Source: Internet
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