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33 Things About How To Secure Quarter Round Trim | How to Install Quarter-Round Molding

  • Measure and mark your next piece that will meet up with your first piece in the corner. Again, you measure the entire length of the wall. Mark the length on your quarter round molding and use your miter saw to make a straight cut. - Source: Internet
  • This is really a matter of preference. Traditionally speaking, the base shoe color should match the trim color, however, the choice is ultimately up to the homeowner. We suggest matching with your trim color to add contrast and emphasize the beautiful stain color of your hardwood floors. - Source: Internet
  • For install I would first silicone the end of the laminate gap where it butts into the pan and let it dry. Then attach the quarter round with a bead polyurethane construction adhesive to the pan only on the vertical surface, or better yet schluter kerdi-fix if you can find it. Then silicone the edges and hope there is enough allowance for movement. Ideally there would not caulk the gap with the laminate but I would be more worried about water intrusion than expansion and contraction. - Source: Internet
  • But despite the similarities between quarter-round and shoe moldings, each presents a stark difference in how it impacts your home. Knowing the differences between these two molding styles is essential if you’re debating adding one to your home. We’ll look at their design quirks and unique benefits and help you find the one that fits your interior. - Source: Internet
  • We’ve installed quarter round molding ourselves every time we’ve finished installing our favorite laminate floors in our master bedroom and hallway, and throughout the downstairs of our house. (I talk about why we chose laminate flooring in those posts, but you can also read this post about the pros and cons of different types of flooring). And while new flooring makes a HUGE impact in any home, I’m telling you it doesn’t look amazing until we install the quarter round. It’s a small thing that makes a BIG difference. - Source: Internet
  • We simply choose to finish our exposed ends in a pretty way. This is a method Joe came up with years ago. We have no idea what to call it, though around here I refer to it as “the Joe special.” As in “this piece needs to be 4 inches long with the Joe special at the end.” I’m not kidding. - Source: Internet
  • Before you even think about installation, you are going to want to finish your quarter round molding by painting or staining it. We have lived with both painted and stained quarter round. I 100% recommend staining the quarter round to match your floors. Why? Painted molding winds up getting chipped and dirty over time, no matter how clean and careful you are. Stained molding looks brand new year after year! - Source: Internet
  • The last step is to fill the nail holes (and any other imperfections) in your quarter round. Because we stain ours, we use Patchal Putty that is pre-colored to match our stain, which makes this step super fast and easy. I just use my finger to apply it. - Source: Internet
  • When it comes to trim carpentry, the less measuring you do, the better. But, for instances like boards running between inside corners, measuring is a necessary evil. There are two approaches, however: - Source: Internet
  • Nail the cut piece in place to the baseboard, not to the floor. Use finish nails that are long enough to pierce through the molding, baseboard and Sheetrock to the wall studs – about 2 1/2 inches in length. If the molding is being used to anchor a floating floor, apply downward pressure to the strip of trim as you nail. - Source: Internet
  • Continue measuring, cutting, and nailing trim pieces around the room, one piece at a time. You will cope all of your inside corners. Use a miter joint for any outside corners. - Source: Internet
  • When we refinish or install a hardwood floor, we replace the baseboard molding. Baseboard molding installations are finished off with a small piece of molding that covers the gap between the bottom of the baseboards and the floor. There are two types of molding that can be used – base shoe or quarter round. So what’s the difference? - Source: Internet
  • These include a miter saw to cut the shoe molding, a coping saw to create inside corners, and a finish nailer (or pinner) to attach the molding. Because shoe molding is small and easy to damage, this is one case where a finish nailer or pinner is preferable to a hammer and nails. Start in a corner and work your way around the room in one direction. This makes it simpler to cut the coping joints you’ll need for the inside corners. - Source: Internet
  • If you’ve been looking at baseboard finishing trim, you’ve probably discovered quarter-round, too. As the name implies, this type of molding is one-quarter of a round dowel (split a dowel down the middle, then further split the halves, and you’ll have quarter-round). While quarter-round can be installed along the bottom of baseboard, trim carpenters and homeowners tend to prefer the sleeker look of shoe molding, which is taller and narrower than its curved counterpart. - Source: Internet
  • The fact that corners and returns (exposed ends of the trim) are involved scares a lot of people off. But I PROMISE it’s not hard! In this post, we walk you through how to handle corners by coping them. We also show you how to finish off any exposed ends so that they look pretty without the need for cutting small return pieces! - Source: Internet
  • Paired with baseboard and stained or painted to match your trim, shoe molding (also known as “base shoe”) is a small, thin strip of molding that gives your room a finished look. Shoe molding adds a decorative touch while covering any gaps that might lie between the bottom of baseboard and the floor. Not all types of baseboard are suitable for installing shoe molding, however, so keep reading to find out if this slim trim is right for you—plus how to install it flawlessly. - Source: Internet
  • Inside corners can be especially tricky to pull off. For a tight fit, use a coped joint. “Coping” means using a special handsaw to cut and shape one piece of trim to fit over the profile of the other piece. This results in a very tight, clean gap. - Source: Internet
  • Quarter round (shown in two sizes in the picture on the left and the right) is exactly as its name implies, one quarter of a round dowel. It has a 90° angle on the backside with a perfect quarter radius on the side that shows. The quarter round comes in a variety of sizes, which makes it versatile enough for a wide range of applications, as well as an ideal solution for eliminating the gap between trim and moldings and to fill corners. - Source: Internet
  • I used to think that quarter round and shoe molding are the same thing. But they aren’t! Shoe molding is 1/8″ round. In other words, it is 1/8 of a piece of a round dowel. Quarter round is 1/4″ round, so is slightly larger than shoe molding. - Source: Internet
  • Next, align the top of the baseboard with the pencil line drawn around the room. Use a finish nailer to drive a nail at each stud location (approximately every 16 inches, alongside doors and windows, and in corners), as well as throughout the bottom 1¼ of the baseboard. For any gaps that might exist at the corners, use shims placed behind the baseboard to close them as much as possible before nailing. - Source: Internet
  • Tall baseboards were popular during the Greek Revival period in the early-to-mid 1800s, but the idea of adding shoe molding to baseboards began in Europe and the United States during the Victorian era of the late 1800s. That’s when mass production of wood trim made the molding readily available. Shoe molding, so called because it’s located at “shoe level,” caught on because it looked good and also helped seal out insects and dirt. - Source: Internet
  • Using semi-gloss paint, you can stain the quarter-round to match the door-frame color. A semi-gloss paint gives a very nice-looking finish. Plus, it also dries quickly. You can also paint the quarter-round to cover the nails. - Source: Internet
  • Tribble Painting Company, Inc. can take the pain of quality molding installation off your hands in and around Ann Arbor, MI. Still, you can attempt DIY installation with a few special tools and a shortlist of steps. - Source: Internet
  • You want to measure and mark one piece at a time. Mark the length on your quarter round molding and use your miter saw to make a straight cut. You will install the first piece so that the straight end cut butts right up into the corner. That’s right… we are NOT mitering. We are coping, so the straight edge goes right into the corner. - Source: Internet
  • Begin in a corner. Cut a 45 degree angle at the end of the quarter-round. Measure the length needed and cut another miter cut at the opposite end. - Source: Internet
  • First, use the miter saw to cut a 45-degree angle on the end of the trim board. Using the edge of a pencil, rub the profile along where the primer meets wood exposed by the cut. This will leave a dark line along which you’ll need to cut to cope the joint. - Source: Internet
  • Find the highest corner and place a scrap piece of baseboard against the wall. Place the level on top of this scrap piece and draw a light, level mark out from the corner. Use the level to continue this mark around the room. - Source: Internet
  • When you’re installing baseboard—or any trim, for that matter—expect to do some re-cutting. Trial and error is all part of the game. When in doubt, it’s always better to cut a board too long than too short and trim it if you must. - Source: Internet
  • is the most common type of shoe molding, and you can buy inexpensive (paintable) pine shoe molding for $5 to $6 per eight-foot section. Hardwood shoe molding, including oak, ash, and walnut, which can be stained to match your trim, runs $6 to $10 per eight-foot section. Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) shoe molding is made from a combination of resin and sawdust, and it is similar in price to pine, at $5 to $6 per eight-foot section. MDF is even more flexible than wood, so it’s a good choice if you have a lot of uneven gaps under your baseboard, but while suitable for painting, it doesn’t stain well. - Source: Internet
  • Since boards running from inside corner to inside corner are impossible to mark in place, measuring is necessary. In these cases, use the tape measure to mark the wall 10 inches from the corner. Next, flip the tape measure around and measure from the adjacent corner back toward the mark. Add 10 inches to the measurement, and the measurement should be accurate to within ⅛ of an inch. - Source: Internet
  • Once your fit is perfect, use your brad nailer to nail them into place. Hold your quarter round trim tight to the floor and holder your nailer angled slightly downward as you fire it. Place your nails about 18 inches and be sure to always include nails close to each end. - Source: Internet
  • Most doors in a house have a standard size, but you still should measure each door as the slightest difference matters. Start by taking an accurate measurement of the door all around. The quarter trim will be cut according to these measurements. - Source: Internet
  • For smaller trim and molding, run a 1/4-inch continuous line (bead) along the back of the trim or molding. For trim or molding larger than 2 inches in width, run a 1/4 –inch serpentine bead (S-bead) of constructive adhesive about 1 1/2-inches from both edges of the trim. Push the piece into place and hold for 5- 10 seconds. - Source: Internet
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  • How To Secure Quarter Round Trim
  • How To Attach Quarter Round Molding
  • How To Attach Quarter Round Moulding
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  • How To Attach Quarter Round Molding To Concrete
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